Screen Printing T-Shirts: How It Works, Inks, Mesh Counts and Costs

Screen printing is still the usual choice for team, event and company shirts in quantity. It gives solid, opaque color and a low price per shirt once the screens are made. It is not always the right choice, though: for a handful of shirts or a full color photo, DTF or DTG is often cheaper and simpler.

This guide covers how the process works, which inks and mesh counts printers use, how it compares with DTF, DTG and sublimation, and what changes the price.

By the RELYmedia editorial team · Updated November 2, 2026

How Screen Printing Works

Screen printing (also called silk screen printing) pushes ink through a fine mesh screen onto the shirt. A stencil on the screen blocks the ink everywhere except your design. Each color in the design needs its own screen.

• 1. Separation: the artwork is split into one layer per ink color.
• 2. Screens: each layer is exposed onto a mesh screen coated with light-sensitive emulsion, which leaves an open stencil of that color.
• 3. Setup: the screens are lined up on the press so the colors land in register.
• 4. Printing: a squeegee pulls ink through each screen, one color at a time.
• 5. Curing: the shirts go through a conveyor dryer so the ink cures and bonds.

What Plastisol Ink Actually Does

Most shirt printers use plastisol ink. It does not soak into the cotton. It forms a layer that sits on top of the fabric and grips around the surface fibers, and heat fuses it in place. Blue Cotton's comparison of the two main inks puts it simply: plastisol sits on top of the fabric, while water-based ink soaks into it. That is why a plastisol print looks bright and opaque and has a slight raised feel.

Curing matters. Ryonet's ScreenPrinting.com notes that most textile plastisol cures in the range of 300°F to 330°F, and the whole ink layer has to reach that temperature. Under-cured ink can crack or wash off; a correctly cured print should last as long as a normal shirt.

Screen Printing vs DTF vs DTG vs Sublimation

Screen Printing or DTF?

DTF (direct to film) is the main alternative for small orders. The full design is printed onto a clear film, coated with an adhesive powder, cured, then heat pressed onto the shirt. There are no screens, so a 10-color design costs the same as a 1-color design, and it works on cotton, polyester and blends.

• Choose DTF for small quantities, photos or many colors, or when every shirt has a different name or design.
• Choose screen printing for larger runs of the same design in a few solid colors, where screen setup spreads across many shirts.
• The crossover depends on the number of colors and locations. Ask for both prices on your actual design and quantity; the more shirts and the fewer colors, the sooner screen printing wins.

DTG is the other digital option. It prints ink straight into the fabric and gives the softest feel on cotton, but it is slower per shirt and works best on high-cotton garments. Sublimation only works on white or light polyester.

Screen Printing Inks: Plastisol, Water-Based, Discharge and Specialty

Water-based and discharge inks avoid PVC, which is why printers market them as the greener option. On tri-blends and high-polyester shirts, ask what ink the printer plans to use: water-based ink absorbs poorly into synthetic fibers, and discharge does not work on polyester.

Mesh Count Guide

Mesh count is the number of threads per inch in the screen. Lower counts let more ink through (good for thick inks and bold shapes); higher counts hold finer detail. These starting points come from Ryonet's mesh count guide:

Treat these as starting points. The ink maker's technical sheet for the exact ink is the final word.

Choosing the Right Shirt for Screen Printing

For specific blanks, weights and style numbers, see our comparison of the best t-shirt brands for company apparel.

What Drives the Cost of Screen Printing

Every screen printing quote is built from the same pieces. Knowing them lets you compare quotes fairly and trim cost without changing the look much.

• Quantity: screens and setup cost the same for 24 shirts or 500, so the price per shirt falls as the order grows.
• Number of colors: each color is another screen and another pass. A dark shirt may also need a white underbase screen.
• Print locations: a back, sleeve or second side print is a new setup with its own screens.
• The blank: premium soft-style shirts cost more than basic heavyweight cotton, and 2XL and up usually cost more than standard sizes.
• Specialty inks and rush: puff, metallic and glitter inks, and rushed deadlines, usually add to the price.

Because setup is a fixed cost, most screen printers set a minimum order. For a few shirts, DTF or DTG is normally the better value. For price ranges by quantity and method, see our guide to how much custom t-shirts cost.

What Affects Turnaround

Preparing Artwork for Screen Printing

• Send vector art (AI, EPS, SVG or a PDF with outlined text). A high-resolution PNG at print size, 300 DPI, is the fallback.
• Count your colors: fewer spot colors means fewer screens. A one-color version of your logo is often enough.
• Give PMS numbers for brand colors so the printer can mix the ink. Our guide to imprint colors explains how colors are counted.
• Avoid hairlines and tiny text. Very thin lines can close up or break on lower mesh counts.

How to Make Screen-Printed Shirts Last

• Turn shirts inside out before washing to protect the print from abrasion.
• Wash in cold water and skip harsh detergents and bleach.
• Air dry or tumble dry on low heat.
• Never iron directly on the print. Iron inside out or put a cloth between the iron and the design.

Checklist for Choosing a Printer